 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
All beauty has its price, the whole world knows. Who fears the brier
never plucks a rose. We have talked much about miniature roses, but before considering the culture and growing needs of miniatures, we should explain what we mean by "miniature." The number of kinds of present day miniatures has been greatly expanded through hybridizing. Plant habits, size, shape and texture of flowers, foliage, colors and flower forms are so diverse it is difficult to pin them down to an overall description. This situation affects cultural recommendations too, for we must try to include all possible factors which will contribute to your success with miniature roses. The Classification Committee of the American Rose Society has worked out a revised description to cover this class which includes some of my recommendations. However, no classification or set of rules is entirely perfect and so this one, too, may be subject to future modifications. Here is the currently approved description of the miniature rose class: "The miniature rose class is composed of clones derived from Rosa chinensis minima used in combination with other rose cultivars. Early varieties have retained the plant and floral traits of that species, but more recent kinds tend to vary in flower and plant size. A broad definition of the miniature class is: Low-growing plants, generally under I foot in height. Greater height, up to 18 inches is permissible if other characteristics are present. Stems are thin and wiry and have short internodes. Foliage is small and proportionate to a small flower size. Leaves have 3 to 5 leaflets averaging 1/2 inch wide and 3/4 inch long, or less. Flowers may be single or double and less than 11/2 inches in diameter. They are borne singly or in small terminal clusters not exceeding 10 buds and flowers. (It is realized that with special care and with some methods of propagation many miniature clones will grow larger with correspondingly larger flowers. Such grossness is a-typical and should be considered unfavorably in rose show competition since daintiness is a most important attribute of this class.) "Climbing miniatures should retain the small size of flower, foliage and stem typical of the bush types." Gardeners, growers, and all who wish to exhibit in the various shows will find the above definition useful. As I have worked with miniatures and written and talked about them many questions have been asked me. I will answer some of these questions again and also present ideas and suggestions which I have gleaned over the years. Experience is still one of the best teachers and most of the following information has come about either through my own observations or that of numerous other gardeners. Before one can properly plant there must be preparation. Since growing plants (with few exceptions) require soil, or a reasonable substitute, this is where we start. A good soil mix is of first importance whether plants are grown in pots, in other containers or in the ground. The
following soil mix which I recommend, was arrived at after trials
of numerous mixtures: Figure 2. Mixing a growing medium for miniature roses 1 part good soil 1 part horticultural perlite or sand I part sphagnum peatmoss
This basic mix can be varied slightly to suit your own growing needs or availability of materials. Fir or hemlock bark or compost maybe substituted for all or part of the peatmoss For pot culture it is best to sterilize your potting mix. Only the actual soil need be sterilized if the perlite is clean and taken right from the bag, and if the peatmoss is also fresh and clean. For a small amount of soil, sufficient to pot one or several miniature roses, the easiest method of sterilization is baking. Put the desired amount of garden soil (no peatmoss or other organic matter) into a pan and place it in the oven. Add one-half cup of water to each two quarts of soil. Center a medium size potato in the soil. Set the oven at 180 degrees. When the potato is done the soil will be sterilized. Mix it on a clean table or in a clean box. Add a small amount of fertilizer to the mixture, just enough to help the plants get started. We mix up huge quantities of soil but the proportion of fertilizer added is approximately as follows: I teaspoon fish or blood meal per gallon of soil; or 1/2 cup steer manure per gallon; or I to 2 teaspoons of inorganic fertilizer such as Vigoro per gallon of soil. Another way is to water new plants a day or two after potting with half-strength liquid fertilizer. For example, if recommended dosage is 2 teaspoons to a gallon of water, use only one. Mix and moisten thoroughly. It should be of such consistency a handful squeezed tightly in the palm almost forms a ball yet falls apart when poured from your hand. If larger amounts of soil or soil mix are to be sterilized, steam may be used if you are equipped for it. Otherwise the commercial grower will use a chemical, usually methyl bromide. This is the method used in our own growing; but, methyl bromide must be used with caution as it is poisonous. The soil or soil mix is placed under a covering of polyethylene sheeting (usually 4 mil thickness) and all edges sealed with damp sand or soil. Then with a special applicator the methyl bromide gas is forced under the covering. After 36 to 48 hours the sheet is removed allowing soil to air for several days before using. Temperatures must be 50 degrees or higher for effective fumigation. Several other methods of soil fumigation or sterilization are available for commercial growers. In the garden almost any soil which will grow good weeds will grow roses. Miniature rose plants are usually sold growing in pots, whether obtained from your local nurseryman or shipped to you by mail. In some cases the pot may be removed and the root ball wrapped in foil for shipping. In either case it is an easy matter to plant them. Pots, whether new or used, should be clean. Wash clay pots with a stiff brush then either dip them in a disinfectant solution containing a household bleach such as Clorox or bake them in the oven. Wash used plastic pots '(do not bake them) then dip them in the disinfectant solution. Dipped pots can be used immediately after the treatment. To pot, place a bit of gravel or several pieces of broken clay pot in the bottom of the pot. (This is not necessary for small 21/4", 21/2" or 3 inch pots.) Fill the pot with sufficient soil to support plant at the desired height. Carefully fill around the soil ball, press lightly, then water thoroughly. To plant a bare root plant hold the plant or rooted cutting at the proper height, carefully fill around roots with loose moist soil, then water thoroughly. Never let exposed roots dry out while handling plants. Figure
3. Potting a miniature rose When planting outdoors in large tubs or boxes or into the ground, use a garden trowel to dig a hole of sufficient size to take the roots, then fill and water as above. Use a shovel to dig a proper hole for plants from large pots or gallon cans Miniature roses require plenty of light so give them a situation where they'll receive full open sun or plant them on the south, east, or west side of the house or other buildings. Fertilization can be quite simple. Prepared rose food or any general purpose fertilizer used for gardens or lawns may be used on your miniatures. Be sure you read the label or are familiar with the kind to be used. Plants growing in pots should be given about one-half the amount used on the same size plants growing in the ground. If you would use a teaspoonful outdoors, use one-half teaspoonful on a plant growing in a 6- or 8 inch pot. Roots tend to follow around the pot wall and are easily damaged by an overdose of fertilizer Fish emulsion is an excellent fertilizer and miniature roses thrive on it. Basically, the culture of miniatures is the same as that for regular garden roses although on a more elfin scale. Bush varieties should, on the average, be spaced about twelve inches apart. Small growing kinds such as 'Red Imp' or 'Pixie' may be planted closer. Larger more robust kinds such as 'Little Buckaroo' may be given more growing room. Careful pruning, or trimming may be used to shape or confine a variety to its allotted space.
Miniature climbers need more space. Plant them three to four feet apart to train on a fence or a trellis. Shoots or branches usually flower more profusely if spaced out on the support and tied in place. Remove any dead or unwanted twigs and branches. Climbers are especially useful trained against a fence where they will give an abundance of color without taking over the place. In other cases they may be used as ground covers by pegging down the long shoots. .For this purpose a piece of galvanized wire bent in the shape of a hair pin may easily be pushed into the ground. Miniature tree roses are quite hardy and respond to the same care and. growing conditions necessary for bush miniatures. Where winter protection is necessary the little rose trees may be loosened, laid over and covered or taken up and potted for winter flowering. In brief, the following suggestions and directions have proved helpful to growers of miniature roses all across the country: OUTDOOR CULTURE-set plants slightly deeper than they originally grew. If the air is dry or windy, soil may be mounded up around plants for a week to ten days or until growth starts. SOIL-any good garden soil may be used. Add fertilizer, peatmoss or sand as needed. LOCATION-any good sunny spot where plants can get several hours of sunlight each day. Avoid planting in the ground near hedges or large trees. SPACING-for low hedges, borders or beds, plants should be spaced about twelve inches apart. WATER-soak immediately after planting. Thereafter, keep soil moist but not soggy. If rainfall is not sufficient, water as needed.
PRUNING-trim plants to one-half size each spring (six to ten inches high depending on variety and area in which you live). Remove any dead twigs. On strong growing kinds (such as 'Little Buckaroo,' etc.) trim back or remove heavier growth, favoring the smaller growth if you wish to keep plants low and bushy (see Figure 7). WINTER PROTECTION-miniature roses as a group are usually hardy, often surviving winter cold better than hybrid tea and floribunda varieties. Being small they are easily protected by mounding with soil or other material as necessary.
SEQUOIA
NURSERY VISITORS ALWAYS WELCOME DURING NURSERY HOURS |
Figure
4. (A) Upright trellis and (B) low fence
FERTILIZE
lightly every four to six weeks during the growing season. Use special
rose food, a good brand of lawn or garden fertilizer, fish emulsion
or steer manure. The more often you feed the lighter the strength
or amount needed.